By Bill Stankus

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I can shave the egg with a chisel to fit perfectly in the socket. Also the chisel produces a faceted surface that bites into the soft pine walls of the socket. These facets help resist torque that might otherwise weaken the joint. I never sand turnings on the lathe. Green wood does not sand well. And on any wood, green or dry, sanding on the spinning lathe will create concentric scratches that are almost impossible to remove, no matter how fine the paper. Also, sanding softens the crisp details that I have taken so much care to make.

You can estimate the shallow rake of the leg (left). Use a dummy leg to find the rake and splay angles of the second front-leg socket (above). the dummy leg and start to bore. About halfway through stop and verify the setting of the brace to make sure it has not wandered. Do this by reinserting the dummy leg and squatting again in front of the seat to view the triangle. Also check that the axes are still in the same plane. Adjust the angles of the brace and bit if necessary and complete the socket.

In a riven turning blank the split follows the direction of the grain, so all the wood fibers in the blank run from one end of the piece to the other. Riven wood is therefore tough and capable of flexing. Had the turning blank been sawn, the cut would have run in a straight line, ignoring the direction of the grain. A turning made from sawn wood risks having its grain run out at a narrow point, as shown below. When the leg is under stress, the wood may break along the grain at that point. indd 34 break is nearly impossible.

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