By Lora Irish
Pyrography, the paintings of woodburning, is absolutely explored during this consultant for newcomers and specialists alike. supplying information at the 4 crucial pyrography ingredients—temperature, velocity of stroke, texture styles, and layering—this reference additionally comprises chapters on gear, floor choice and training, and completing options. instructing the way the attention comprehends visible tones and translating this data into mild and darkish values with woodburning instruments, this article for all ability degrees additionally presents 30 traceable line styles that range in ability and skill.
Read or Download Great Book of Woodburning: Pyrography Techniques, Patterns & Projects for All Skill Levels PDF
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Extra resources for Great Book of Woodburning: Pyrography Techniques, Patterns & Projects for All Skill Levels
Thick by 11⁄4 in. wide by 111⁄4 in. long, notched for legs 1 in. 16 in. 3⁄4 31⁄2 131⁄4 in. 1⁄2 28 in. in. Miter in. in. 1⁄4 41⁄2 in. 101⁄4 in. 1⁄8-in. inset in. Back Leg Detail 271⁄4 in. 1⁄8 in. 1⁄8 in. 3⁄4 in. 1 in. Front Leg Detail s h a k e r c l a s s ic t wo wa y s 33 Two Options for Legs When building tables, it’s logical to start with the legs because they tie all the other parts together. Use a tapering jig on the tablesaw to taper the two inside faces or turn the round legs on the lathe.
Then pare with a chisel to a perfect fit. To bandsaw the profile on both lower stretchers at once, join them with doublefaced tape. The curve also can be cut with a jigsaw, but clamp or tape a piece of scrap to s i de ta bl e s the upper side of the stretcher to keep the cut as clean as possible. When the upper stretchers are cut to size, saw a dovetail on each end. A handsaw and/ or tablesaw can make these cuts, leaving just a bit of chisel work. Cut a 1⁄ 8-in. shoulder on the lower side. This shoulder can be registered against the side of the leg to transfer the shape of the dovetail to the top of the leg.
By 20 in. tall second choice is a brad-point bit—cut the holes as close to each other as possible without overlapping. With the leg clamped to the workbench, clean up each end of the mortise using a chisel that matches the mortise width as closely as possible. Keep the chisel off the layout line until the final cut, which should remove only a sliver of wood. Work into the center from both sides, but try to get the cleanest cuts on the visible outside of the leg. With the mortise ends established, use the widest chisel that will fit the length of the mortise to pare the sides.