By Robert W. Lang

Build your talents as you construct tremendous tables!

Inside, you can find step by step pictures and guide, plus measured drawings, for 17 tables in a variety of kinds and ability degrees (including numerous good-looking items you could simply construct in a weekend).

From easy tapered legs to modern cabrioles, from basic slap tops to draw-leaf tops, from facet tables to online game tables--you'll examine the concepts, instruments, and joinery essential to construct great-looking tables for each room on your house.

Plus, you will find 5 procedure articles to benefit abilities you could adapt for desk designs (as good as different initiatives) of your own.

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Additional info for Furniture Fundamentals: Tables: 17 Projects For All Skill Levels

Sample text

Square the corners with a chisel. Finish sand the 1 ⁄4" birch plywood panel and then glue it in the rabbet. When that glue is dry, glue the slats in place spaced 1" apart. Finally, to complete the doors cut a 1 ⁄4"-thick × 3 ⁄8"-long tongue on the top and bottom edge of the backside of the doors. 31 ⁄4" 13 ⁄4" 13 ⁄4" 20" 31 ⁄4" 11 ⁄2" 11 ⁄2" 71 ⁄2" 13 ⁄4" 3 ⁄ 8" 13 ⁄4" 1" spaces 191 ⁄2" 16" 121 ⁄2" 13 ⁄4" 3 ⁄ 8" 101 ⁄2" 13 ⁄4" PLAN DOOR ELEVATION 13 ⁄4" 30" 13 ⁄4" 16" 13 ⁄4" 2" 20" 6" 12" 1" 24 3 ⁄4" 12" 2" 2" 101 ⁄2" 151 ⁄2" ELEVATION 13 ⁄4" PROFILE 13 ⁄4" 20" 13 ⁄4" 13 ⁄4" 16" 1 ⁄ 2" 12" A A 2 3 ⁄4" C 1" 1" B B 12" 9 3 ⁄4" 12" B B 1" 2" D 1 ⁄ 8" 1 ⁄ 8" 1 ⁄ 8" 231 ⁄2" 1 ⁄ 8" 151 ⁄2" SECTION 13 ⁄4" On the door slats, I cheated.

I was able to make them 11 ⁄4" long, but only if I mitered them. I made all the shoulder cuts on the table saw for the best results. Then I cut the cheeks on the band saw. I always cut them just a little fat, so after a light adjustment with a shoulder plane, they fit nice and tight. Because I cut the leg mortises on a slot mortiser, they had rounded ends. Instead of squaring the mortises, I chose to round the tenons with a rasp and coarse sandpaper. The final step was to miter the ends of the tenons, so they would extend as far as possible into the mortises.

I mitered the small pieces on a horizontal belt sander fitted with a miter jig. Using this jig and sanding away material, instead of planing it, allowed me to easily “sneak up” on a clean, perfect fit. Of course, these small pieces can also be trimmed and fitted with a block plane. When fitting the bead, work from the front or leading corner of the leg toward the back. That way the most visible miters will be tight and any small error can be hidden at the back of the ankle. I glued the pieces in with a small amount of carefully applied yellow glue, held them in place with strips of masking tape, and quickly wiped away any squeeze-out.

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