By Editors of Fine Woodworking
Learn to construct cozy, long-lasting chairs. Chairs are ubiquitous, present in each domestic, place of work and development. just about all are commercially made in view that many woodworkers shrink back from making chairs, or maybe stools. Granted, there aren't too many sq. components to such a lot chairs, and compound angles are a bit intimidating. however the articles during this booklet, reprinted from "Fine Woodworking" journal, might help dispel any questions or fears you will have approximately chair development. not just are you able to construct them, you can also make them higher than the typical commercially made models.
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Extra info for Designing and Building Chairs: The New Best of Fine Woodworking
Then I marked and disc-sanded a flat section perpendicular to the floor on the front faces of the back legs, where the side rails will intersect the legs. Next I bandsawed a taper on the inside edges of the bottom section of the back legs, from 1 in. sq. at the floor to 11⁄2 in. sq. just below the flat at the side-rail intersection (about 121⁄2 in. from the floor). BUILT FOR COMFORT: THE THREE-SLAT CHAIR 47 THE THREE-SLAT CHAIR I also tapered the tops of the back legs to 1 in. wide on their inner edges, as viewed from the back (see the drawing at right), and to 3⁄4 in.
Sq. at the floor to 11⁄2 in. , 3 in. from their tops. Slats are each 5 in. high and taper from 175⁄ 8 in. wide to 157⁄ 8 in. wide. 1 in. 1 in. at center Slats are spaced 11⁄ 8 in. apart and are centered on the back leg. Leg-to-Rail Joinery I used mortise-and-tenon construction on this chair because it has no stretchers, so the strongest possible leg-to-rail joinery was necessary. I laid out all the rails with a 3 ⁄16-in. reveal at the leg intersections except the back rail, which I made flush to the inside of the chair.
I also rounded all the edges on the front faces of the back slats at this time to make the seat more comfortable and to give the chair a softer appearance overall. I clamped the slats to the chair temporarily with spring clamps, the top one at 36 in. from the floor, the other two with 11⁄ 8-in. spaces separating them. Then I marked the centers of the back legs, top to bottom, and I located the screw holes, two per slat on each leg. I removed the slats and drilled countersunk pilot holes for the screws from the back side of the legs.