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The back is inset into a rabbet that’s cut after the case is assembled. the plywood edges on the case front and door are covered with solid-wood edging. The inserts are dadoed and then tacked to the cabinet sides. -thick birch plywood, along with a bit of solid birch for edging. The door is hung on butt hinges and is latched with a brass slide bolt. The cabinet can easily be upsized to accommodate more blades or largerdiameter blades; if you currently have only a small collection, allow enough space for future acquisitions.

Lay the center rail across the aprons, mark it to final length, and cut it. 1/4" Leg 5. Disassemble the parts, and lay out and cut the biscuit slots for joining the center rail to the aprons. If you don’t have a biscuit joiner, you could screw through the end rail into the center rail instead during assembly. 6. Drill the screw pocket holes for attaching the top later. If you don’t have a pocket-hole jig, you could attach wooden cleats to the aprons and rails through which you could drive screws to attach the top later.

TIP When ripping plywood into pieces, plan your cut sequence so that all factory edges are cut away in the process, leaving clean-cut edges. 4. Square up the case by comparing its diagonal measurements. Glue and screw the upper cleat into its notches. Use the marks you made on the back of the cleat to line up the dividers. Attach the lower cleat. 5. -thick clamp rails to the underside of the upper cleat. Screw the top to the case. CLAMP CABINET ✦ 29 PHOTO D: After cutting the biscuit joints, clamp the corbels in place using clamps with soft jaw pads.

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