By Ted Fuller

The paintings of Woodworking - complex Routing

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To 41⁄2 in. in 1⁄2-in. increments. You can use hinges that have square corners or a 5 ⁄8-in. radius. Move the spacers to match the size of hinge you’ll use, and keep the spacers centered in the opening. For a square-cornered hinge, you’d swap the spacers end for end. To install a 41⁄2-in. hinge, you’d omit the spacers. If you’re hanging a batch of doors, you’ll save time and possible errors by purchasing three jigs and attaching them to a 3⁄4-in. plywood upright. A B Remove the washerlike plugs from the template, and use them to secure the duplex (doubleheaded) nails to the body of the template (B).

Referring to the installation data supplied by the hinge manufacturer, find the diameter and depth of the hinge-cup hole, and use your drill press to drill a hole of those specifications into a scrap board. In this case, the hole’s diameter is 35 mm and its depth is 13 mm. Take the scrap board to your workbench, put the jig plate atop it, and add the drill assembly. Loosen the stop collar on the drill (A) and push the bit to the bottom of the hole, fully compressing the spring. Tighten the stop collar, and you’re ready to use the jig.

Cut or split strips of wood, and glue them into the old holes. Snap the strips sideways, and clean up any splinters above the surface of the mortise with your chisel. Drill new pilot holes, and attach the hinges to complete the installation. B C D E VA R I AT I O N Sometimes you’ll need to add a shim to change the depth, width, or length of a mortise. The photo shows a wide range of shopmade and purchased shim stock: masking tape, chipboard recy cled from a cereal box, index cards, sheet veneer, handplane shavings, veneer edgebanding, aluminum foil, sheet brass from a hobby shop, and metal flashing.

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